Friday, November 22, 2013

Show us some love, get free stuff!

We'll be at the Indie Craft Experience this weekend, and we can't wait! To celebrate, we'd like to show some appreciation for all our wonderful customers and the nice things they always have to say. All the Facebook, Twitter and Instagram mentions of us this weekend will be entered in a drawing for free products in December- twice if you include a photo of us, our display, or our products! We're in booth #120- head all the way to the back, and we're directly in front of the Beehive's salts and scrubs workshop (which should be excellent). And if you should decide that you'd rather buy bath salts or sugar scrubs than make your own, we'll have plenty for sale. We also have tons of bar soap and lip balm, our new Honeybee Hand Soaps, a variety of craft beer soaps, and shaving soap sets, which include badger shaving brushes and vintage milk glass shaving mugs. We're offering free gift wrap on any purchase you have us ship for you. And this is our first holiday season offering the option for "A Year of Soap," a wonderful gift for any soap lover- we'll mail a choice of seasonal soaps and lip balms to your lucky gift recipient each month all year. So get to posting! You never know which of this great stuff we'll be giving away.

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

What came first, the idea or the eggs?

...The idea for shampoo bars, that is, with egg yolks as an ingredient? It's a really good question, actually, and one I can't answer, as I don't remember. We've been keeping chickens for years, and while I've always heard that egg yolks are great for shiny hair, I've been squeamish about that whole raw-eggs-in-the-hair thing. It just sounds so... gloppy. But we've been getting LOTS of requests for shampoo bars, and in a solid bar of soap it's obviously not messy. Once the soap is finished, it looks like any other bar of soap, and you'd never know that eggs are involved, except for the great results with your hair!

If you're not familiar with the idea of a shampoo bar, it's a great alternative to liquid shampoo. It lasts longer, it requires very little or no packaging (as opposed to a big plastic bottle) and is better for you and your hair, being chemical-free and full of a variety of wonderful ingredients like coconut oil and goat's milk and essential oils and honey. We really load ours up with luxury ingredients like silk and vitamin E and moisturizing oils so that you get a decadent, silky, sudsy bar of soap.

Despite all the requests, we've held off making shampoo bars, because we were waiting for our new flock of chickens to lay eggs. We're very picky about what goes into our soap, and especially so with animal products. Almost everything that goes into our soap is vegan, so with anything that isn't, we verge on obsessive. The honey and beeswax comes from our own bees so we can be certain they're not managed with chemicals at any point, the goat's milk we use is local and raw, and now that our hens are laying we have eggs that come from free-range chickens that are spoiled rotten and not fed anything creepy like hormones or other animals. In fact, we may have to write a post later introducing them all- they're gorgeous, and quite fancy, except for their names being things like Biscuit and Moo shu (don't worry, it's ironic- they're egg birds, not meat birds).

Anyway, we hope to have shampoo bars ready for some of our upcoming events, but either way they're in the works and will shortly be available on Etsy. Enjoy!

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Shows and more shows

We haven't been writing for awhile- sorry! It has been crazy crazy crazy here at Soapzilla. We keep pretty busy, between making soap and dealing with all the hobbies that led us to soapmaking in the first place. It's amazing how much time it takes to tend to bees and a garden, and to harvest and dry the hops and herbs and flowers we use in the soap. Honey harvest is intensive too, but no matter how sticky and messy the place gets, you're always so giddy over the gallons of honey that you don't care.

Our soap maker became a Master Beekeeper this year, and is working her way from Association Honey Judge to Senior Honey Judge. Part of this involves entering, and winning, honey shows, and accruing points. It takes 100 points to move up to Senior Judge, and a first place only gets you 6. We're even happier about the quality of the honey and beeswax we use in our soap and lip balm now, because in just one season it won enough ribbons to get her the 100 points. Our bees happened to get their best harvesting done when sumac was blooming, which makes a dark-colored honey, so our honey soap this year is being made with what is now officially the best dark honey in the state. 

Now that honey show season is over, it's time for autumn craft shows! Soapzilla will be showing off our craft beer soaps at the first annual Ponce de Leon Beer Festival - and we greatly enjoyed the Great Atlanta Beer Fest, especially the part where we got to drive our truck on a sidewalk and into Turner Field (craft beer aficionados can find our craft beer soaps at Ale Yeah in Decatur and Roswell if you're not the festival type). We'll also be at the Holiday Bazaar at Serenbe Stables this year, which we're looking forward to (because everything about Serenbe is awesome anyway, so a holiday bazaar PLUS Serenbe PLUS Santa? Epic).

And possibly the most fun of all, this year we're happy to be participating in the Indie Craft Experience Holiday Shopping Spectacular, which, if you've never been, is indeed spectacular. Awesome music, a well-stocked bar, and the most perfect holiday shopping EVER for those who prefer to give unique, hand-crafted gifts in lieu of mall fare. We usually set aside that day to go and shop, not to mention just people-watch and have a good time, but if you couldn't tell, we're thrilled to actually be a part of it this year. And if we haven't sold you on it yet, the first 250 people through the door each day get a swag bag filled with all kinds of goodies from the vendors. Soapzilla's contribution is 500 (!) cute bags with soap samples and an event-exclusive coupon code you can use for any direct purchase (i.e. from us, and not one of our retailers). Actually, we kind of feel bad for the other vendors, because we assume that making 500 of anything might be hard on the hands- but with good soap, cutting and smoothing 500 samples did wonders for our hands. Soapzilla for the win!

Come out and see us at one of our events- and keep an eye out for new stuff. We have some great things in the works!

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Cold process soap variations

There are SO MANY variations on cold process soap. It's crazy! People ask me what kind of soap I make, and there are so many ways I could answer that half the time I don't even know what to say. And that's not even counting the non-exactly-strictly-cold-process soaps I cover in this previous blog post. So I thought I would run down a few of them here for the soap-curious :)
  • Regular! "Regular" cold-process soap doesn't mean plain and  boring. It's just not one of the specific variations below. It can be solid or layered or swirled, colored or fragranced, with any number of additives. For more details on cold-process soap, what it involves and how it's made, see our other blog post on the subject.
  • Silk Soap has an extra-luxurious, silky texture because I dissolve real silk into the lye solution before I blend it with the oils. 
  • Milk Soap substitutes milk (often goat's milk) for water, and while it can be tricky to make, the result is worth the effort. Milk soaps are gentle and moisturizing, and a lot easier to manage than
    soaking in a whole pool of milk like Cleopatra :)
  • Craft Beer Soap explores (you guessed it!) craft beer. You can read more about the process here, but by using craft beer instead of water in the lye solution, and using ingredients and additives that reflect the attributes and flavor profile of the beer in question, you end up with a great-smelling soap with all the fragrance notes of a good beer and none of that boozy smell. And the ingredients, hops in particular, are great for your skin!
  • Honey and Beeswax Soap is my first and favorite soap. Using honey and beeswax from our own bees, these soaps are fantastic for the skin and are especially good for those with skin sensitivities that keep them from using many commercial soaps. 
  • Specialty Soaps are soaps made with a specific purpose. Some of ours include Jewelweed soap, because Jewelweed is a natural and extremely effective poison ivy remedy, or our Citronella/Peppermint/Lemongrass/Grapefruit soap, which was specially requested by a customer because of those essential oils' insect-repelling properties. 

Of course, there are many more kinds, but these are some of the main ones. We come up with new
ideas and get requests constantly, so there's no end to the new varieties we try out!

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

American Girls like to make stuff :)

We're excited to be one of the guests at American Girl Camp this week at Little Shop of Stories! If you're not familiar with them, Little Shop is a local children's bookstore and has the highest concentration of awesomeness in the known universe. They have one summer camp per week during the summer, often themed on books. This week's camp is based on the American Girl books, so each day they learn about and do activities from the times of different American Girls, like making teepees and planting victory gardens. They also do tons of fun crafts, so we're going to teach the campers how to make Soapzilla lip balm!

Thursday, June 6, 2013

Honeybee swarms

A swarm in a holly tree
I know we focus a lot on honeybees, but since the honey and beeswax are such a big part of our soap making, it's hard not to. Plus, spring is such an exciting time of year to be a beekeeper! The bees are building up the colony after the winter (when they hunker down and conserve energy), any new bees you've ordered are either being delivered or are ready to be picked up, you go over all your equipment, and most exciting of all, it's swarm season! One of the services a beekeeper performs is rescuing bees who have swarmed. Things are settling down now after a crazy spring, but I'm still getting a lot of questions from people who want to know more about how it all works.

People get SO freaked out at the idea of a swarm of bees. It brings to mind "killer bees" and seventies horror movies. But all it really means is that a beehive has reproduced- and people should be less afraid of these bees, not more, because the lack of honey to protect makes swarming bees incredibly docile. If you think of the hive as an entity (rather than the individual bees), it makes sense that the way a colony reproduces is to swarm. They do this a lot in the spring, mostly because, as the colony builds up its population, the hive can begin to feel cramped. The  bees produce a new queen, and the old queen takes about 60% of the hive and flies off to find a new home. This leaves the new queen with plenty of room. The queen and her bees land on a branch or a wall or almost anything, really, and then they hang out while scout bees look for new digs.

Wall cavity after bees are (mostly) removed
Now, ideally, this is when someone notices the swarm and calls a beekeeper. The beekeeper will come out with a whole bunch of equipment, like ladders and buckets on poles and hedge clippers, and collect the bees. Sometimes the bees are really high up or difficult to get to, but generally, it's not too terribly hard to collect a swarm this way. Beekeepers LOVE to get these calls, because they save the bees (bees left unattended may find an unsuitable living space, which we'll discuss in a moment, or they may die of exposure) and also, they get to take the bees home and try to start a proper colony in a hive.

Of course, more often, the bees are not collected by a beekeeper. They sometimes find a place to live that's ok, like a hollow space in a tree, but often they find a place that seems ok to them but is awfully inconvenient to people. Then they build a colony in a space like an attic or inside a wall, and you don't notice until one day you're mowing the lawn and wonder why all those bees are flying in and out of that little gap between your wall and the air conditioner.

A frame full of brood comb
Then you have to call someone to extract your bees. This is very messy, involves a lot of work, and is best left to someone who knows what they're doing (as opposed to trying it yourself). Some people just call an exterminator, but aside from the fact that we need all the honeybees we can get, you're still going to have to cut open the wall or ceiling or what-have-you to remove the bees and honey, because dead bees and brood smell REALLY bad, and the honey and wax will attract pests like mice and ants.

However, a brave homeowner who helps out with the extraction will be amply rewarded, because a cutout is SO. COOL. It can go in a lot of different directions, based on where the bees are located and how they've built the colony, and how long it's been there, but the beekeeper will basically cut an opening and remove the comb (with various cutting tools) and the bees (with a modified vacuum. Yes, I'm being serious - a vacuum). The part of the comb with the brood (i.e. baby bees) is placed into frames and set into a deep (which is what the bottom box of a bee hive is called). We take that brood box home, and empty the vacuum contents onto it, and go from there. The homeowner can expect a fair number of lost bees wandering around over the next few days, but they dissipate over time, since they can't reform a colony without the queen and brood.

Beekeepers generally will not charge anything to come rescue a swarm, but a bee extraction requires specialized equipment and a LOT of work, so expect a charge (ask up front what it will be). Also, a bee swarm, by definition, has a queen, which is what makes it possible to establish that swarm as a colony. In an extraction, the queen bee may not be captured, or she may be killed or damaged, so the bees that the beekeeper takes home are not nearly the incentive that a swarm is. Still, do please call someone (you can google your local bee club or association for references) as soon as you notice the issue; colonies only get harder to remove the longer they stay. And since they can contain tens of thousands of bees, it's better to remove them to a safe place, even though honeybees are far more docile and less prone to sting than, say, wasps or yellow jackets. They will definitely still sting you if you're bothering the hive, and if that hive is in the wall of your garage, for example, then you run into a major conflict of interests.

All that being said, new colonies are fun fun fun for a beekeeper. It's often hard work, rescuing bees, but it's all worth it when you get the colony to thrive in a good home. Nothing makes me happier than relaxing on a sunny afternoon out in the bee yard, watching happy colonies of bees do their thing.

P.S. If you're in the metro Atlanta area, absolutely feel free to contact me for your swarm issues. I'm always happy to answer questions, and more bees= more colonies= more soap and lip balm.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Botanical soap ingredients

I talk a lot about bees and the hive products we use in our soap, but I do also get questions about the botanicals. One of the reasons I got into beekeeping (and thus soap making) in the first place was because of a natural progression from gardening, and I still spend time in my garden every day. I used to be a professional gardener, and became a Master Gardener for my county in 2007.

Whenever possible, the botanicals in Soapzilla soap are home-grown in my own garden. It's kind of the same reasoning as using my own beeswax: if I plant and tend the garden, I can be sure that the plants are totally chemical-free and of good quality. You hear so many terrible things about every kind of ingredient under the sun these days, that it just seems prudent to use what you produce yourself when you can. Plus, it's really satisfying, and I love working in the garden anyway.

So without further ado, here are some of the ways we use home-grown botanicals in our products:

The fig tree, just starting to leaf out. 
Figs! Our figs are white Marseilles figs (as best we can determine; the tree is probably older than we are) and are very sweet, which adds sugar to the soap, increasing lather. We put the figs in a food processor and use them in cold-process soap. Fruit in general makes for an interesting texture, but figs are great because the seeds are a great, gentle exfoliant. The most popular soap using this ingredient is Brown Sugar Fig, which we generally make in autumn.

Strawberries have a similar effect, but with fewer seeds and lower sugar content. But they really have a unique effect on the texture of the soap.

Roses are my first gardening love. The first plant I learned to take care of was a red rosebush I found growing in my jungly backyard when I bought my house over ten years ago. Since then I've learned to prune and fertilize (no chemicals, don't worry), hybridize and start cuttings, transplant and trellis. So I love using them in soap- the dried petals as an added touch on the surface of soap that's scented with rose oil, and rose hips in lots of ways. They can be used the same way as the petals, or ground up as a beneficial exfoliant throughout the soap, or rose hip tea or rose hip-infused oils can be used in the soapmaking process.

Hops, drying.
Hops are a fun one for me. My husband and I are home brewers (he makes the beer, while I focus on wine and mead), so we grow several varieties of hops for beer-making purposes, but hops are also fantastic for your skin. I use them in beer soaps for the fragrance and exfoliating properties and the skin benefits, and have had some recent requests for shampoo bars with hops, because they're good for hair as well. Hop tea and hop-infused oils can be used too.

Herbs are versatile as soap ingredients, too. We grow lots of them anyway, because we love them, but you can use them in tons and tons of different soap styles and combinations. Thyme, oregano, rosemary, tarragon, sage, basil, parsley, a billion kinds of mint (more or less)... yum!

Lavender is one of those plants that I used to dismiss as grandmotherly and useless- you can't eat it, right? I don't feel like making sachets and doilies, people! But two things changed my mind and turned me into a lavender addict. One: I was given a facial as a gift, and the... technician? facialist? what do you call those people? Anyway, she used lavender oil and massaged my face and scalp and it was one of the better tactile experiences I've ever had in my life. Two: my favorite little French restaurant has homemade ice cream, and they have a honey & lavender flavor. I'm a sucker for anything honey, so I tried it, and now I can't smell lavender at all without my mouth watering (or walk past that restaurant without getting some of that ice cream). So lavender in soap became irresistible, and I use lavender flowers from the garden to make a french milled soap with lavender essential oil. It's a glorious bar of soap for a bubble bath or for washing one's face.
A baby artichoke!

We're always trying new things, so you never know what else we'll figure out is great in soap. We grow lots more fun things- artichokes, asparagus, grapes, tomatoes, Italian stone pine, various plants with useful flowers (like violets or echinacea) or leaves (like tea camellia or bay laurel), et cetera. If you can eat it, odds are that eventually I'll put it in some soap!

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Stuff We Made Up, Part 1

Sometimes we use terms for our soap that we made up ourselves, just because we can - and also because no appropriate term seems to be available. One of these is Leftover Surprise, named for one of our favorite weekend brunch dishes, which involves a fritatta made with anything delicious left over from the week (you haven't lived until you've had a shrimp, baby potato and roasted garlic fritatta).

Anyway, when we trim and smooth our bars of soap, we save the trimmings and make Leftover Surprise. Basically, we look at what we have, try and match up pleasing combinations, mill up the trimmings in the style of a french milled soap, and melt them down into new bars. We sell 'em on the cheap, because the cost to us is less (it basically helps up recoup the labor costs of trimming the soap) and unlike our regular soaps, which we can duplicate if we get requests, each batch of Leftover Surprise is unique. The combinations can be really lovely and unexpected, too- we made a few this week that are especially good: Fruit & Honey, which was a blend of all of our Honey & Beeswax soaps plus Peach, Tangerine Creamsicle, Blood Orange, White Fig and some Fancypants for good measure. There was also one we just called Man Soap, which is made with all of our men's shaving soaps, Black Pepper bath bar, Bay Rum bath bar, coffee, chocolate, and all of the beer soaps. We're hoping to finish up trimming enough soap this week to make a garden-themed one, with Sweet Pea, Gardenia, Hyacinth, Lilac, Lavender, Honeysuckle, Chamomile, Ladies' Shaving Soap (which is honeysuckle, grapefruit and Honey), our bug-repelling soap (made with citronella, grapefruit, lemongrass and peppermint) and Garden Grits (which is a lightly exfoliating bar with
 peppermint, spearmint, rosemary, basil, and lemongrass). Even some of the weirder combinations turn out amazing, like Blueberry and Amaretto. Also, the texture of each bar varies, depending on what's used- the ones with glycerin are silkier, and often they have various exfoliants, like the coffee in the Man Soap and the slightest bit of ground oats in the Fruit & Honey. 

So keep an eye out for these, because once they're gone, they're gone!

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Lip Balm: it's always the quiet ones.

It's a funny thing, but we almost never talk about our lip balm, even though it's very popular... even at festivals and things, when people usually ask tons of questions and want to talk all about the different kinds of soap. They walk up to the lip balm, try the tester, stare at the different kinds for a minute, then buy half a dozen and walk away. It's crazy. But when I asked my customers who I know personally, they told me why. It's a combination of flavor, texture, and effectiveness, and really, once you try it, it doesn't need a whole lot of discussion or explanation. It occurs to me, though, that the habit of not talking about it at sales events doesn't help those of you shopping online, since you haven't had the benefit of trying it in person to see how yummy it is. To quote one of our very first customers, "You know how most lip balm smells really good but sort of just tastes waxy blah? Not this stuff. It actually tastes like it smells. It's glorious. I have some sort of tangerine citrus punch and I love it."

And it works! I find that I don't need to explain to people what makes it so good when they've just tried it for themselves. Sure, I use great vegan ingredients, shea butter and coconut oil and Vitamin E and a few others, with raw honey and a beeswax base, but the results speak for themselves. People come up to us months later and tell me how much they love it, how they threw away all their other lip balm and just drool over my Etsy shop, waiting for new flavors. They use it on cuticles, elbows, heels. I even had a pregnant mama tell me how she used it on her stomach to help with stretch marks!

It is a constant source of amazement to me that using the crafting equivalent of the golden rule is such a surprise to people. Instead of doing unto others as I'd like others to do unto me, I just make products with ingredients and methods that make them appealing to myself. Tastes good, smells good, feels good- check. Food-grade, lip-safe, non-animal ingredients- check. Cute reusable container- check. It seems simple to me, but I think I will never get over being thrilled that everyone else loves what I make as much as I do.

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Bees? Really?

Bees on honeycomb
People are often very interested in the beekeeping aspect of soap making. Obviously, not all soap makers are beekeepers, even the ones who make beeswax and honey soap, but they're two hobbies that go together very well. Once people find out that I use my own honey and beeswax, they have a few questions. Also, as a beekeeper, I often do talks about honeybees at elementary schools, so it's a very nice change of pace to explain things in grown-up terms :)

I'm often asked how bees make honey and wax. They don't just magically appear, after all. So: honey is made when bees collect nectar from flowers and store it in the beehive in a small hexagonal cell of the honeycomb. They fan it with their wings to dehydrate it, and when it's at the proper moisture level, they "cap" it by covering the cell with a thin layer of wax. To a beekeeper, a capped cell is proof that honey is ready to harvest. Honey is one of the few food substances in existence that will never spoil, due in large part to the level of dehydration attained by the bees. The only honey that ever goes bad is honey with too much water in it, which is harvested too early (or it might also happen if extra water got into the honey after harvesting; honey with water intentionally added, for instance, can be fermented into mead). Beeswax is secreted by bees from glands in their legs- in people proportions, imagine a big flake of wax on your thigh. They use the wax to build honeycomb, which, as mentioned, is a storage place for honey, and also for pollen, and for baby bees.

Honey still in the comb
To harvest all this requires some management of the hives. Beehives are built of a stack of boxes, called "hive bodies" or, depending on the size, "deeps" or "supers"; the lowest box is typically filled with eggs, baby bees and the adults who care for them, plus the queen, who is always busy laying more eggs. The next box is filled with honey; if this box is the same size as the lowest one, that's usually enough honey to see a colony of bees through the winter, and must be left for the bees to eat. Any boxes above that, though, are fair game for the beekeeper to harvest. You slide something called a "bee escape" between the lowest boxes and the ones with honey you want to harvest. This has a little maze in the center, so that bees can exit the honey boxes but not get back in. After a couple of days, there are no bees left in the upper boxes, and you can take them indoors to harvest.

A full frame of capped honey
Harvesting involves opening the boxes and removing the frames of honey and beeswax. You pull each one out and use a very sharp knife to carefully slice off the "cappings," or the layer of wax that seals the honey in. You then put the frame into an extractor, which is a hand-cranked cylindrical device that uses centrifugal force to whip the honey out of the comb. You repeat this until all the frames are empty, and then put them outdoors again, so that the bees can reclaim any residual honey.

An extractor full of frames
The cappings are your beeswax, which you then melt down for use in soap and lip balm.

The honey gets strained and then stored in jars until used. One of the reasons the bees cap the cells of honey is that honey is a humectant, meaning that it attracts and absorbs moisture- which is part of the reason it's such a good ingredient to use on skin. Honey soap can be very helpful for dry skin. Honey's also antibacterial- I use it instead of Neosporin on cuts and scrapes, and they heal faster and leave less of a scar. You can read more about the healing properties of honey here.

You can make soap without honey and beeswax, and in fact, I often do. But the honey and beeswax soaps are always my favorite, because while everyone's skin is different, my skin always feels and looks better when I use honey and beeswax as my everyday shower soap. And I love going out to my bee yard and seeing the girls flying around; it's great to know that you're making something good and you know where your ingredients come from. In the summer when the sun warms up the hives, you can smell the honey and beeswax, and it just smells so good that I'm never satisfied until I take a shower with that soap :)

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Cold Process? Milled? Glycerin? Soap is soap, right?

In case you were wondering about the different soap-related words we use in describing our products, here is a quick rundown of the ones we're asked about most frequently (and if you want to know about something not covered here, feel free to ask!):

1. Cold-process: this is the term for the method of soapmaking we typically use. It's called cold process because, while we do heat up our oils enough to melt them, there's no real cooking involved, just a chemical reaction between a lye solution and oils.

2. Castile: this is a type of soap made using only (or mostly, depending on what you're going for) olive oil for the oil portion of the soap mixture. Using only olive oil makes the soap mild and gentle. It also makes for a good, hard (read: long-lasting) bar of soap which is white or sometimes faintly green, depending on how the olive oil's pressed (extra-virgin comes out a little greener). It takes a lot of stirring to get this soap to mix properly.

3. Milled, or French Milled: this is a method wherein we take already-made soap (we use our Castile, usually), and mill or grate it up. We then re-melt it slowly, adding other ingredients, before we spoon it into molds. There are two benefits to this process. First, it makes for a harder and longer-lasting bar of soap. Secondly, you can do some interesting things with ingredients. I always add extra moisturizing oils during the process, but also, in making cold-process soap, the lye destroys a lot of the more delicate ingredients... so for instance, you have to use a lot of essential oil for it to be noticeable in the finished soap, and if you use, say, lavender flowers or chamomile, the lye will turn them brown and ugly. Now, if you make a plain castile soap and mill it up, you can add flowers or herbs without turning them ugly colors or reducing their effectiveness, and essential oils or more delicate oils like wheat germ or Vitamin E will have a much bigger impact. These soaps don't swirl or layer well, though, as they aren't as liquid when they go into the molds- more the texture of mashed potatoes, while regular soap is more like a thin custard, and glycerin soap is completely liquid.

4. Glycerin: this is a kind of soap that's made the same way as cold-process soap initially, but when the lye and oils are mixed together, instead of pouring it straight into a mold, the mixture is heated for several hours ("hot process"). This causes the soap to become "neutral"- the part that's accomplished by several weeks of curing in cold-process soap making. When it reaches that point, vegetable glycerin, alcohol and sugar are added to the soap, and after some additional cooking time, it becomes transparent. Then I put in any additives and pour it into molds. Glycerin soap is silky-smooth to the touch and is very moisturizing and mild. This is the method we use for Fancypants soap, several holiday soaps, and some craft beer soaps, for example. (The photo to the left is our frankincense-and-myrrh holiday soap, which swirls a creamy white soap with a shimmery gold glycerin soap.) You can  swirl or layer glycerin and cold-process soap for different effects. Shimmery colors do very well in glycerin soap because, unlike opaque soap, transparent soap makes it possible for light to refract off the particles and produce a shimmer. This is also what you'd use if you wanted to suspend something in the soap and have it be visible. The up side is all the neat effects; the down side is that it takes a long time to make and somehow always makes a huge mess :)

Monday, April 15, 2013

Yay for 250 Likes! Let's have a contest!

You like me! You really, really like me! (I couldn't help it, sorry.) To celebrate reaching 250 likes on Facebook, we're giving away some stuff. Like and share any of our posts (and tell us that you did via comment or message; it's hard to keep track otherwise) to be entered to win a soap, lip balm and bath salts of your choice (or extra soap if you're not a fan of bath salts) plus an assortment of samples. Follow us on Twitter @SoapzillaSoap for an extra chance to win. You can enter once a day, and the winner will be chosen at random next Sunday, April 21st.

And to thank ALL of you who've liked us so far, use the coupon code "Awesomesauce" on your next Etsy order for 25% off! (The only item this is NOT good for is our shaving kits, due to the cost to us of the vintage mugs.)


Friday, April 12, 2013

Why an old-school shave is the hot new thing

It used to be that I knew absolutely nothing about shaving soap. I didn't understand the procedure. It seemed weird and unlikely that any form of shaving could require the use of a mug. And a brush made out of badger hair? I was pretty sure that somebody like Amy Sedaris made that up. Then my husband heard that a hot shave was easier on the skin. My poor guy has always had skin that looked red and rough after shaving, which was not only uncomfortable but didn't look very attractive, either. I didn't want him to have to show up at work with a scraped-up face.

So I checked it out; it didn't seem too difficult to make. I figured, I make soap; if he wants to try a particular kind of soap, why not make some for him? Worst-case scenario, it doesn't help and we're back where we started. So I got him a shaving brush and a vintage mug (why not?) and made a batch of my first and favorite shaving soap, bay rum. I had fun with it; I made plain Castile soap, then milled it up and remelted it, adding lots of moisturizing oils and a special mix of spices, essential oils and aged rum. And OMG, did it smell good! I kinda didn't care whether it helped his skin or not, he was going to have to keep using it. I wanted to pounce on him every time he walked past. However, it did wonders for his skin. His face isn't razorburned anymore, he enjoys his morning shave, and he likes the old-school feel of shaving with a mug and brush.

So I made more (unscented! black pepper! woodsmoke! yum!), and did some research. The vintage mugs were perfect- my soap fit into them exactly, plus I loved the variability: Old Spice shaving mugs are all made of milk glass (goes with everything) and they feature ships, but they're all a little different- different ships, different text, different degrees of fading. Now I hunt them up whenever I'm antiquing.

The brushes, now, that was a thing. It tuns out that there are two main kinds of brush: boar and badger. Boar is a lot cheaper, but also coarser. Many people consider them inferior, but if you have very coarse facial hair, they're actually preferable, because the badger hair won't lift coarser facial hair enough for a good shave. The badger hair brushes are pricier, but if you don't have particularly coarse facial hair, they're worth it. They hold water better and create a better lather, while not being too rough on your skin. So now I offer a free shaving brush (badger, unless they request boar) for people who purchase a shaving kit from my Etsy shop, and some local shops that carry Soapzilla products (Square Foot in downtown Decatur, in particular) sell soap-and-brush combos. 

What I didn't expect is how popular the soap would be. Who even shaves this way anymore? But I have a coworker who used to use shaving soap and was hesitant to use mine, but now swears by it. I frequently have to send shaving soap via priority mail for guys in the military who need to get it before they ship out overseas. It's far and away the most popular thing in my Etsy shop and has been featured many times in the "For Him" category on their mobile app. And it sells out constantly in the local shops.

So for those of you who are wondering how to use it, there are lots of resources online, but basically:
1. Put the shaving soap into the bottom of the shaving mug.
2. Wet a small towel or washcloth with some really hot water and put it on your face for a minute or two (an important but often-overlooked step).
3. Get your shaving brush wet in the really hot water and use it to work the soap into a lather.
4. Brush your face with the lather.
5. Shave! You can use a regular razor, too- no need to get old-school there, unless you really want to.
6. Wipe your face down with that hot-water towel from step two.

Try that for a week and you'll be shocked by the difference. As for the fragrance of the soap, it's mild but lingering- if you prefer something unscented try our "mildly-scented" varieties, which smell great while you're using it but don't leave a fragrance on you- mainly for guys who wear cologne and don't want anything to interfere with that scent. And if none of our fragrances seem appealing but you want some shaving soap anyway, message us- we can always do something custom for you!

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

The awesomeness of sugar scrubs

My mom, bless her heart, is baffled by sugar scrubs (don't tell her I said so). She received some for Christmas, and while she thought it looked and smelled nice, she just didn't know exactly what it was for or how to use it. As it turns out, this situation is shared by a lot of people. As someone who has discovered the awesomeness of a good sugar scrub, let me fill you in.

Ok, so, first of all, what's in a sugar scrub? Basically, it's a blend of sugars and oils. Some scrubs might include some other ingredients too, but those are the main two. Soapzilla sugar scrubs are made of a variety of sugars, depending on the type of scrub, and a blend of moisturizing oils. We also use just a little bit of sea salt, which acts as a natural preservative (more about that later) and essential oils for their relaxing properties and great fragrances.

Now, what are they for and how do you use them? Sugar scrubs provide an effective but gentle exfoliation (by way of the sugar crystals) while moisturizing your skin (with the oils). If you have dry or flaky skin, or almost any skin condition, it's very helpful. You take a small amount of the scrub in your hands and massage it (or scrub, whatever feels better) over the affected areas until the sugar dissolves. I used to go get pedicures ALL the time, not so much for the polished nails, but because my feet felt rough and looked dry, particularly my heels. I save myself a lot of money by using sugar scrubs at home. I like to take a hot bath, and after I've soaked a bit, sugar scrub my feet. It takes off all the dead, cracked-looking skin and leaves my feet feeling smooth and soft. It does leave you a little oily, but a quick wash with some soap (something that goes with the scent of your scrub) takes care of that. For the ladies out there- if you shave your legs and then sugar scrub your feet, you can massage some of the oil onto your legs, and it feels SO great. The effect lasts a good long while, too.

As for extra ingredients, you want to watch out for some of them. Some scrubs use chemical preservatives, because, although a sugar scrub on its own will not go bad, if you get any water inside the jar, then it will spoil. We don't like chemical preservatives, which is why we use sea salt. We only use a little, and you should still avoid getting water into the jar of scrub, but we're not fans of chemical additives. On the flip side, ingredients like essential oils can add a lot to your experience. You can read our post on craft beer soap to learn more about the benefits of essential oils, but they vary widely and can be very beneficial as well as relaxing, not to mention smelling delicious. If used as part of a bath, essential oils in a scrub will scent the whole bath and give you an all-over experience.

I never have considered myself a girly girl, and I used to scoff at the kind of person who used fancy soap and sugar scrubs. But I am completely converted- they just feel too good NOT to use. Plus, I make them in all kinds of non-traditional scents that aren't necessarily too girly or floral, like peppermint, grapefruit, white fig, lemongrass, brown sugar vanilla... you name it. And we even make some for the guys, in the same fragrances as our shaving soap, because, really, everybody deserves happy skin.

Monday, April 8, 2013

So... how do you make soap, anyway?

When, in conversation, I tell people what I do, they are always surprised and, after a moment to think about it, confused. Soap is one of those things you just take for granted, unless you have a special interest in it. So after a minute, they almost always ask, "So... how do you make soap?" Sometimes I say, "Well, when lye and oils love each other very much..." but since that doesn't always go over very well, I end up explaining the process fairly often.

In general terms, then, soap is made through a process called saponification. There are two parts to the soap mixture, and when those two parts are combined, they saponify, and the chemical reaction forms soap.

The first half is a mixture of lye (which is extremely caustic and can cause chemical burns, which is why I look like a mad scientist when I make soap, with a face mask and safety goggles and gloves) and liquid- usually water, but depending on the soap, you can also use milk, coconut milk, beer, et cetera. The second half consists of oils. You can use pretty much any oil you can think of to make soap, but since each oil has different properties, the better the oils, the better the soap. Also, you might have
different purposes for different kinds of soap, so you'd want to choose the right oils to make, say, a mild moisturizing soap, or a soap with a very bubbly lather, or a super-cleansing utility-style bar, or any number of other qualities. Some people use animal fats like lard or tallow, which I understand make some wonderful soap, but I never use any animal fats, only vegetarian oils like coconut, olive, castor, avocado, almond, wheat germ, et cetera. I love to work with honey and beeswax, so I mix those in at this stage too. If you use beeswax, it's very important to know your source, because many hives are managed with chemicals, and wax absorbs everything it comes into contact with. So if bees are managed with chemicals it goes right into the wax and then onto you, when you use your soap. (Our bees, obviously, are chemical-free, or I wouldn't be off on a tangent about it.)

The two halves have to be measured extremely carefully, so that they neutralize each other evenly. If your mixture has too much lye in it, the soap will remain caustic and not be safe to use. If you have too many oils, the extra oil in the soap will go rancid. Each kind of oil saponifies at a different rate, so you have to be certain that each one is measured down to the gram, and that you're using the exact right amount of lye for that combination. And the two halves have to be mixed at just the right temperature or they can curdle, separate or refuse to "trace." When you combine into one mixture, you then have to stir it until it reaches trace, the stage at which, if you trail some of the mixture across the surface, it leaves a trail, or trace, before sinking back into the mixture. Depending on the soap and how you stir it, this can take an hour or more. But you can't stir too long, either, because if it reaches trace and you keep going, the mixture can quickly seize and become completely solid right in the pot. You have to watch carefully, because some soap can reach trace in less than a minute.

Then the fun part: additives. These can turn your soap from super-plain and dull to amazing. Fragrances, colors, essential oils, vitamin E, exfoliants, botanicals... a creative person can come up with infinite variations. You mix these in as you're bringing the soap to trace (not after, because if your soap is getting ready to seize you won't want to take the time to mix in anything extra; you have to move quickly). And some of the additives (especially essential oils) can accelerate trace, making it happen very fast. This is also the time when, if you're making soap with swirls or layers of different colors, you'd split the batch into separate containers and mix in different additives.

Then you pour your soap into molds, cover it, and (again depending on what you're trying to do with the soap) insulate it or chill it. After a day, you can unmold it and slice it, and wait for it to "cure." Curing is sort of like ripening for soap. It takes time for the saponification process to be complete, and until then, the soap remains caustic and isn't safe to use on skin. The length of time varies from recipe to recipe, but three weeks is usually a good cure time. That time also allows the soap to harden (it's soft when it's newly-made), and the harder a bar of soap is, the longer-lasting it is. Finally you can trim your cured soap, smoothing edges and any imperfections, and package it up.

And that's how soap is made! There are, of course, tons and tons of websites and books on the subject, and variations in almost every step, but those are the basics.

Friday, April 5, 2013

A Soap by the Home Brewers, for the Home Brewers...

A common theme in most of my blog posts (and conversations, for that matter; pity my friends) is how hobbies lead into one another. For me, gardening led to bees, and then honey led to mead making and beeswax led to soap making. The gardening also led me (and my husband) to grow our own grapes (for wine) and hops (for beer). The result of all this, at the moment, is that now I'm incorporating the home brewing into the soap.

A lot of places carry beer soap. However, some soap makers just substitute beer for the water in a recipe and call that beer soap. In my opinion, that's no fun. The whole point of drinking something more complicated than a Bud Light is that it's interesting. And what makes it interesting? The sugars, the hops, the floral notes, the maltiness... all the nuances that make a craft beer a craft beer. And all of those can be applied to soap! It's so much fun to work out how best to make a soap reflect the qualities of a particular beer. For instance, a honey brown soap will incorporate a really good beer, sure, but also local honey, real hops, and essential oils, while a coffee stout will have some deeper flavors, and an awesome exfoliating texture from finely ground coffee. A good beer soap will have all the aromatics of a craft brew without the boozy alcohol smell. You should appreciate the fragrance of a beer soap the way you'd inhale over a great beer just before that first sip.

Another benefit of a more thorough approach to soap making is that you get the real benefit of the ingredients. It's similar to the difference between raw honey and processed honey (which is a whole different post); you can just have the flavor of honey if you want, but raw honey gives you active ingredients with a whole array of benefits in addition to flavor (which is improved as well). So you can certainly enjoy beer soap that's just been made quickly with beer substituted for water in the recipe, but our style of beer soap is going to be more than just a novelty gift.

In addition to just enjoying the experience of using it, it's good for you! Like many alternative remedies, results aren't guaranteed and will vary from person to person, but hops, for instance, are chock-full of antioxidants and are said to help relieve, to varying degrees, anxiety, sleeplessness, dermatitis, and lots more- everything from psoriasis to menstrual cramps to stress headaches. You can read more about that here and here and here.  Speaking of honey, I'm not going to get started on that right now, but in my experience it's practically a cure-all, particularly when it comes to skin. Additives like coffee in a coffee porter soap are great exfoliants, and oatmeal in an oatmeal stout soap can soothe irritable skin. Essential oils have a wide range of benefits, from digestion to circulation to just plain relaxation; more info on that here and here and here. And just on a tactile level, the sugars in beer soap change the lather- just as some beers have more of a head than others, using candy sugar or honey or malt sugar in a beer soap will result in more bubbly suds.

To sum up, then: beer soap is awesome. It feels good, it smells good, it's good for you, and it makes a good gift for yourself or for the beer connoisseur in your life. Soapzilla beer soap is shortly going to be for sale locally at a craft beer store (ooh, mysterious! We'll make an announcement when it's officially in stock) but these varieties, which have been really fun to test, will be our initial offerings:

Pale Ale: a translucent amber glycerin soap, Pale Ale is extremely moisturizing and smooth, with noticeable hoppiness and citrus notes, especially grapefruit.

Honey Brown: an opaque golden-brown soap, Honey Brown is a mild soap with East Kent Golding hops, essential oils and local raw honey.

Oatmeal Stout: dark-brown and complex, Oatmeal Stout incorporates hops and ground oats to exfoliate and soothe your skin.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

More than you probably want to know about beekeeping

In case you were wondering about the honey and beeswax in our soap and lip balm: they are what started Soapzilla. My first year as a beekeeper, my single hive yielded 100 pounds of honey, which is a LOT. There was a lot of wax, too, but I personally don't find it exciting to pour wax candles, so I looked into how else I might be able to use up all that beeswax. The internet informed me that I could make soap with it, which seemed appealingly Little-House-on-the-Prairie, so I tried it, and loved it. And the more I made, the more my friends wanted it, and they told their friends, who told their friends, and voila! Soapmaking business, just from a fun hobby.

But the beekeeping is still a huge part of it. I'm very proud of my bees, and I raise them using IPM, or integrated pest management, which is a practical philosophy of beekeeping. It boils down to the fact that I never use any chemicals, ever- not to poison hive beetles or mites, not to medicate the bees- and instead manage them year-round in ways that reduce their susceptibility to pests and diseases. The result is that the wax and honey I harvest from my bees to use in soap is as pristine as it's possible to be. Of course, bees are foragers and will travel up to two miles for a good nectar source, so they can come into contact with any chemicals used in my general area. But I'm very lucky, because my yard is full of good nectar sources and even a creek, so it limits how far my bees need to go to get what they need and reduces the risk that they'll come into contact with anything unpleasant.

I never used to think about the ingredients in my soap, because somehow it seemed more important to consider the ingredients in food. But in my time beekeeping, I've used honey for so many things- on scrapes and cuts, as an allergy remedy, etc.- and found it to be so effective, that it was hard not to think about how great an ingredient it is in pretty much anything. Raw, chemical-free honey and beeswax is so good for you, and so different from processed honey, that it's a no-brainer to put it in soap if you want to make something that'll make your skin happy. To understand it in terms of food ingredients, the chemical-free aspect is like the difference between free-range chicken and the poor chickens who live in boxes and get pumped full of medications, and the raw part is like the difference between ice cream and probiotic yogurt (that last example sounds less than delicious, maybe, but you get what I mean. Live ingredients are everything.)

Anyway, most of this rambling is a result of my happiness over catching a swarm this week. It's always great to have a  new addition to the bee yard, and rescuing a swarm means that the bees get a good home and proper management, instead of finding themselves a cranny in the wall of someone's house, unable to build a proper hive. And more bees here at Soapzilla just mean that we have more honey and beeswax to use in our soap and lip balm!

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Jewelweed and Poison Ivy

Even though this will make me sound like my little brother, circa 1990: wanna see something gross?

Wait, wait! Don't be so quick to click. Sheesh. Let me explain.

A long, long time ago, when I was first learning to garden by taming the yard of the house I had purchased at the ripe old age of 22, knowing nothing whatsoever about plants of any kind (I'm still the only person I know who managed to kill a pet cactus), I discovered poison ivy. That is, I discovered the particular indignities related to it: an itch so bad I woke up already scratching my arms, an entire abdomen covered with cracked and oozing scabs, the way a steroid shot in the butt hurts a little when actually administered but becomes increasingly painful all day... the list goes on. I am so sensitive to poison ivy that the rash stays for more than a month, and sometimes leaves scars. I once went to a wedding and at the reception, when I mentioned how embarrassing it was to have to go to a social event while I had poison ivy on my face, a friend said, "Oh, we just thought you had the herp."

Wanted. to. die.

So obviously, when I heard about jewelweed, I was extremely interested. A natural remedy for poison ivy? No way. So I made myself some soap using oil that I had infused with dried jewelweed, and some of the actual dried plant that I had ground up. The next time I thought I had come into contact with poison ivy, I used the soap, and didn't get a rash. I figured I must not have had poison ivy at all. The next time I had poison ivy for sure, I used it again- and I got better surprisingly quickly. The most recent time that I had poison ivy (if you're wondering why I keep on getting poison ivy, it's partially because my yard is enormous and jungly, and partially because I won't listen to my husband and wear gloves. He gets to say, "I told you so," a lot) I did a little experiment. I used jewelweed soap on my face and neck, and made sure NOT to use it on my arm. Three weeks later, when I caved and went to the urgent care (which is especially embarrassing because the urgent care doctor is not only hot but is also a good friend of my boss'), the rash on my face and neck was healed to the point that he couldn't even see it, while my arm was so bad that I got not only a steroid shot in the butt, but oral steroids and antihistamines too.

So while I cannot make any health claims about my soap (it's a real labeling rule, believe it or not), jewelweed has been an herbal remedy for years, and though it may work differently on different people, I have proved to my own satisfaction that it works. Like magic. I've also been told that it works on other rashes and itchy-skin conditions, although I haven't tested for that, thankfully not having had occasion. You can read more about the plant and its history here:

All that being said, here is where the grossness comes in. I took a picture of myself after my doctor's visit, with both affected areas. The first photo is the untreated rash (try to ignore the foreshortening that makes me look like I have burly dude arms), and the second is the one I used the jewelweed soap on- you can just barely see where the rash was; it made a sort of horizontal line just under my chin and running up toward the back of my neck.


Keep in mind that this is the very same case of poison ivy, from a single day; before the rash developed fully, you could actually see the lines where the poison ivy stem had touched me running across my arm and up my neck. And yes, just the stem... this was in January. The oil is even more potent in the stem and roots, which is all that's there in the winter. It's a sneaky plant.

Anyway, if you should get some soap to use for yourself, here are instructions:

If you believe you've come into contact with poison ivy, wash the affected area right away with jewelweed soap and COLD water. Hot water opens up your pores and lets the oil affect you more strongly. Speaking of which, strip down and wash everything you've touched- the active part of poison ivy is an oil, and it can cover more territory than you would believe. A lot of people think that their rash is just spreading naturally, but really they're just coming into contact with the oil repeatedly, because they got it on their gloves or shoes or clothes or sheets or, heck, their dog. The rash itself, once you've washed the oil off, is not contagious and doesn't spread. It does develop gradually, though, and if you scratch it, can get infected, which also makes people think it's spreading.

If you wash immediately and thoroughly, you may never develop a rash at all (best-case scenario). If your rash is already developed, I've found that washing it a couple of times in a row, or lathering it up and letting it sit for a minute before rinsing, will make the rash scab over and heal far more quickly, and also scar less. If you've scratched enough that the rash is raw, it'll sting a little, but it's very effective. Repeat twice daily for the best results, and try hard not to scratch.